Elevator counterweights drilled, Rudder trailing edge prosealed

 

 

So today I tackled two different tasks I've been avoiding. First up: prosealing the trailing edge of the rudder to prep it for back-riveting. I touched up a few countersunk holes on the AEX wedge to help the dimpled skins better seat in them, and then re-verified the alignment of the trailing edge to within 0.10" - it was. With help I re-scuffed the trailing edge parts with Scotchbrite & cleaned them thoroughly with naptha.

 Proseal is a watertight elastic sealer that is primarily used for sealing the fuel tanks. It's working consistency is somewhere between tar, old bubblegum stuck to your shoe, and chocolate pudding.

In this case, because it's very sticky, we're using it to bond the trailing edges of the rudder skins to the slim aluminum AEX wedge that allows for a very narrow and yet sturdy trailing edge.

 I mixed up a small batch and spread a thin layer first on the right (down) side of the wedge with a popsicle stick. I then flipped the wedge over and slid it into place, secured one end with a cleco to prevent slippage, and grabbed an unsuspecting assistant to hold the left (top) trailing edge open while I buttered the top of the wedge.

 We clecoed on the aluminum angle that I had previously match-drilled and wiped off some of the proseal that squeezed out with naptha and it came right off. The proseal needs to cure for a couple days, at which point we'll remove the clecos and angle & backrivet the trailing edge.

 Next challenge: match drill the elevator counterbalance weights. Which are lead.

I started by filing the surface down to fit the weight to the end rib assembly. Once I had good fit, I pilot drilled the holes #40 about 1/8" deep and removed the weight to drill through on the drill press.

The drill press kept trying to kick to the side, so I stopped - I'll need to figure out a way to take the lateral slop out of the press a different day. Today, it meant I was drilling manually.

I reassembled the right counterweight with the counterbalance skin & ribs and proceeded to break off 2 #40 drill bits. $&^%!

After taking a break to clear my head, I came back & was able to get both counterweights match-drilled to #12 by drilling only 1/8" at a time, removing chips & allowing the bit to cool completely, and using lots of lubricant on each of the bits (#40-#30-#21-#12).

After those two projects, it was a relief to get back to simple rib-spar match drilling, attaching the root ribs, & both elevator counterbalance assemblies.

 

Elevators: 5 hrs